Ft Nelson to Liard River Hot Springs & Watson Lake Sign Post Forest – July 1 & 2

Alaskan Adventure: Day 31 &32. It’s been raining a lot. Steady sprinkles, not downpours. Not complaining as we hear about heavy rains and flooding where our friends back in Banff/Canmore area are camping! Fort Nelson to Liard River Hot Springs was 189 miles. Hot Springs to Watson Lake was 144 miles. Almost all of this has been in British Columbia traveling NorthWest. Watson Lake is very close to the Yukon Territory boarder so we will be in the YT soon. There are some wildfires in Canada but most are north of us and several driving hours away. We were surprised to start seeing and smelling smoke at we got into Fort Nelson. It was pretty bad in the campground but didn’t deter the mosquitoes at all. By morning the wildfire smoke had cleared as we left our campground but the mosquitoes were still crazy. We drove awhile in the rain eager to get to what was advertised as “the best cinnamon buns in Canada” at Testa River Lodge.

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This huge, hot, gooey, bun was awesome. We ordered one bun and one breakfast plate to share. We were full after the bun. Then the breakfast arrived…

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They smoke these enormous slabs of bacon here. It was delicious but we could not eat it all. We waddled out in the rain and traveled on. The rain, the wood burning stove for heat on a chilly forest mountain morning will be a good memory. This place is at Historic Mile 375 Alaska Highway. We drove for about 1 1/2 hours of nothing but forest to get here. Power is all by generator. After eating we drove another couple hours of nothing but forest before getting to Liard River Hot Springs. No towns, no houses or cabins, no gas stations or gift shops, there is nothing but forest (and whatever is living in there) for hundreds of miles. The Alaskan Highway was built through the wilderness and it is still wilderness.

Short video driving in the rain and see a bear along the road.

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Beautiful turquoise blue rivers, clouds drifting through the mountains, beautiful wild country.

Mama and baby moose ran across in front of us as we were pulling off to let a semi blow past.

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The landscape is always changing. This is a panorama shot of Cuomo Lake. The color of the lake is from copper oxide washing into the lake from surrounding mountains.

A herd of Wood Bison hanging out along the road. At Custer State Park there are herds of buffalo you can drive through and they have a large area to roam but they are fenced in. These are totally free ranging. Some are radio tagged so they can keep track of where they are but they can go anywhere.

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We were able to pull off and get a photo of this herd of Wood Bison with some calfs.

The Wood Bison herd as we drove past.

This is the Liard River Bridge. It is the only original steel suspension bridge remaining on the Alaskan Highway. It was built in 1943 and much of the steel came from the infamous Tacoma Narrows Bridge. That bridge, nicknamed “Galloping Gertie” collapsed in 1940.

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Another bear along the road. A grizzly bear I think? It was apparently very hungry. Whatever it was grazing on must have been good because it would not pick it’s head up to look around. This was taken through the window. I did not get out of the RV.

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Just another pic of the road. I liked the mix of dark pine trees in the blue/gray leaves of the trees.

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We arrived at Watson Lake to fill up with gas and visit the weirdest tourist attraction yet; The Sign Post Forest. I had heard about this but was overwhelmed with how big it was!

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This is our Adventure Trek group beginning to assemble for a group photo.

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This is “our sign”. It is screwed into the base of a pine tree. Good luck finding it.

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Another shot showing a bit more surrounding area.

Hillary to Our Sign

But if you are ever in Watson Lake looking for our sign. Try asking around for “Hillary”. If you can locate Hillary you can find our sign. Our sign is at the bottom of the tree behind the Hillary tree.

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Random panorama shot. It is hard to understand how large this forest of sign posts extends so I tried taking a video.

The video is just a small portion of the “forest”.

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In the “small world” category of interesting trivia, this sign post forest was unintentionally started by Private Carl K. Lindley of Danville, Illinois. This is for you Phil and Barb with your Danville roots!

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The original Danville Illinois sign that started all this.

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While I was walking around taking pictures, Becky was looking for a sign mounted last summer by someone whose quilt blog she follows and enjoys (Cat Patches). I was very surprised that she found it! At last count there are 126,490 signs. That is not a needle in a haystack but it seems close. I was really happy I found Becky.

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Here’s a link to Cat Patches blog post about this sign: https://catpatches.blogspot.com/search?q=sign+post

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After the Sign Post Forest we visited the Watson Lake Visitors Center and The Northern Lights Centre (across the street from the Sign Post Forest). One exhibit showed the year-to-year growth of the “sign forest”, another showed how creation is viewed by local tribes. We watched a couple multi-media presentations on the Northern Lights in a large domed room (similar to a planetarium).

Driving back to the campground we drove through snow on the road that had fallen while we were in town. Low temps at night here have been in low 40’s, high daytime temps have been upper 50’s, lower 60’s. Nice when the sun is out, chilly when it’s cloudy.

Today’s favorite Bible verse: Mark 10: 32-34

They were on their way up to Jerusalem, with Jesus leading the way, and the disciples were astonished, while those who followed were afraid. Again he took the Twelve aside and told them what was going to happen to him. “We are going up to Jerusalem,” he said, “and the Son of Man will be delivered over to the chief priests and the teachers of the law. They will condemn him to death and will hand him over to the Gentiles, who will mock him and spit on him, flog him and kill him. Three days later he will rise.”

Hinton to Dawson Creek & Fort Nelson – June 27-30

Alaskan Adventure: Days 27-30. From Hinton (Alberta) to Dawson Creek (British Columbia), and from Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson, BC. A few photos but mostly driving, driving, driving. 288 miles from Hinton to Dawson Creek and 283 miles from Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson.

We fueled up in Hinton and headed up the “Scenic Route” to Dawson Creek. The major highway route is from Edmonton to Dawson Creek but that would add hundreds of miles. The scenic route was a very scenic 286 miles through mostly forested hills and mountains. Lots of ups and downs and curves. There were two towns on that 286 miles; Grande Cache, and Grand Prairie.

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The Scenic Route. The forest goes on f o r e v e r but the edges have been cleared back a long way so there is a chance you will see large animals before hitting them…

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Lots of wildlife warning signs. There are no fences along the roads, its all wide open. We had not even made it to Mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway before getting our second rock hit on the RV windshield (we also got a small chip on the tow car windshield).

The required Mile 0 shot.

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Dawson Creek is “Mile 0” of the 1,387 mile long Alaskan Highway. The end is at Delta Junction, Alaska (near Fairbanks). The history of the Alaskan Highway is crazy. Here are some interesting points but a google search will get you more if you want to know.

World War II and the bombing of Pearl Harbor Dec 7, 1941 created need for the ALCAN Road (Alaska, Canadian).
US and Canada feared a Japanese invasion of Alaska (they had invaded the Aleutian Islands already).
US agreed to pay for the road in return for easements through Canada.
10,000 US Corps of Engineers troops and 16,000 civilians (both US and Canadian) built “The Road” in 8 months!!!
Construction began March of 1942 and was “completed” October 28, 1942. None of it was “paved” at that point.

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Old grain elevator building that was saved from demolition and moved into town to become an Art Gallery. There is a ramp that winds up the tall building (sort of reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum).

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Lots of nice artwork and hand crafted gifts in the Art Gallery. Worth a look.

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There are several “Mile 0” monuments in town. This one is in the center of an intersection.

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In 1978 there was a whole row of big grain elevator buildings. They were all demolished except the one that was moved into town and is now the Art Center.

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We retired the Dekalb front license plate for an Alaskan Highway plate.

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The Art Gallery also has a nice history of the Alaskan Highway.

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Just south of Dawson Creek is a little town called Pouce Coupe. This has nothing to do with the Alaskan Highway but it’s a cool wooden trestle built in 1930 by the Northern Alberta Railway. It is no longer in use. I braved swarms of mosquitos to get this picture while Becky waited in the car.

At the end of the day in Dawson Creek we had a really great buffet meal at Fixx Urban Grille compliments of our AdventureTrek group. This type of arranged group meal is often questionable but this was exceptional.

No pics but next day we traveled to Fort Nelson which is in British Columbia. Fort Nelson had a nice woodsy campground but it was also rainy and had lots of mosquitoes. We spent the night inside the RV.

Banff & Jasper National Parks – June 23 thru 26

Alaskan Adventure: Days 23-26. Internet was real iffy in the National Parks. Signs along TransCanada Highway 1 say “No cell service next 350 Kilometers”. I’m way behind on posting pics so this post will cover several days.

June 23 – Tuesday: Another beautiful sunny day. We were still ahead of the rest of group from church so we decided to do the drive up through Banff and then up toward Jasper on the Icefields Parkway. We would see this again on June 26 when we moved from our campsite at Banff to our campsite at Hinton but would not be able to stop at the overlooks with the RV and tow car. Also looking at weather ahead it was forecast to be rainy on our travel day which turned out to be true so we were glad we did the drive on a sunny day.

Breathtaking mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, turquoise rivers and lakes! This is a beautiful drive.

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Such a variety of different mountains. I didn’t keep track of place names, just enjoyed the drive and took a few pics along the way. Really wanted to get up to Sunwapta Falls near Jasper. Next group of pics and videos is of Sunwapta Falls.

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Tourists enjoying one of our favorite places on earth.

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The “Weeping Wall”

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The Banff Visitor Centre at Lake Louise. We stopped here on our way back. There are some shops nearby and a small grocery where we picked up some sandwiches for dinner.

We stopped at Johnston Canyon Campground and had dinner with Damon and others who had arrived that afternoon. Enjoyed seeing everyone from home after 23 days on our own!

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Sad to say I have no pics of the evening at camp. But I did take this pic of the tallest, healthiest dandelions I’ve ever seen… We said our goodbyes for the day and headed back to our campground about 30 minutes away. Very soon after leaving the campground Becky says “Oh! I thought I saw a bear but it’s just a culvert” We drove right by and both went “It WAS a BEAR!” so turned around a got a pic. This bear was headed in the direction of the campground, looking for a pic-a-nic basket no doubt.

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The “Culvert”

The Bear.

June 24 – Today was a day of errands. We both needed haircuts so drove into the nearby Town of Canmore for that and some groceries. While there we checked with Aspen Glass to see if they could fix the crack in our RV windshield. They said yes, if we could be back with the RV in an hour. So we rushed back to Banff and got back to Canmore with the RV. They worked for almost an hour to inject some kind of glue into the crack. Some went in but not as much as Brian (the shop owner) would have liked. I was shocked when he would not accept any payment for his time and materials. Highly recommend Aspen Glass and thank Brian for his help and generosity!

After getting back from Canmore we drove up to visit with the Johnston Canyon Campground group and have dinner with Damon. We had purchased some baby back ribs in Canmore so Damon heated those up on his grill. It was a good time together.

The only pictures today are from our campsite. As we were getting ready to drive to Canmore a herd of elk were walking through. They walked right by. We had to wait for one of them to move so we could back out of our parking spot.

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Waiting in the car for elk to finish grazing so we can back up and go. There were lots of baby elk who made cute squeaky noises amid a few bellows from the bull elk watching over his harem.

June 25 – This morning we drove back up to the Johnston Canyon Campground. We picked up Damon and headed for the Lake Louise ski area where all the buses come and go for visits to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Becky and I paid for a bus trip to Lake Moraine and back so pics that follow are all Lake Moraine. Damon had a ticket for both lakes on a different bus line.

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It’s called “Moraine Lake because it is held back by a moraine of rocks blocking the valley and creating the lake. At the lowest spot the melting snow runs out of the lake here where there is a stream under all those logs. Each winter avalanches drag trees down into the frozen lake. In the spring they all float to here in a big log jam.

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While waiting for Damon’s bus we walked along the lakeshore path and enjoyed views of the clear water and turquoise colors.

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View from the parking lot where we met up with Damon.

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Becky waited for us at the Cafe/Gift Shop area while Damon and I went to climb “The Rockpile”.

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Damon really wanted to see a bear. Making the best of things by befriending two pet bears.

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Getting ready to climb the Rockpile.

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Moraine Lake from the Rockpile.

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Mug shots from “The Rockpile”.

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This is “Castle Rock”. Below the front edge of that mountain in the valley is Johnston Canyon and the Johnston Canyon Campground. Damon (the mountain goat) climbed a trail that ended just above the tree line at that front edge.

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Hanson’s said “we’re going to Banff for vacation; if anyone wants to tag along you’re welcome” and look what happened!
Photo credit goes to Haley Ney. Herding cats credit goes to David for getting everyone together for this shot. I don’t know all the names so not even going to try. If anyone wants to send me a list I’ll post it here.

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“The Hoodoos” rock formation near our campground.

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Elk at the turn-in to our campground. Obeying the stop sign and checking traffic before crossing…

June 26 – We left Banff and traveled through Jasper to Hinton. It was a rainy day as expected but the views were still beautiful with low hanging clouds in the valleys. Below are three pics for the day, all from the dashcam.

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Wildlife overpass bridges look much more natural. We saw them 10 years ago as they were just being built.

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This is the “Welcome to Jasper” sign with the entire area burned by massive fires. Very sad after seeing this area 3 years ago before the fires.

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The massive smooth black rock here has been rubbed over by a glacier. I think that’s cool.

We arrived in Hinton at the Jasper/Hinton KOA. That’s it for this “Part 1” of the trip. We will do laundry and shopping in Hinton before heading up the “Scenic Route” to Dawson Creek where we will meet the rest of our RVAdventureTrek group for the next two months in Alaska.

Favorite Bible verses for today: Matthew 6:25-34

25 “Therefore I tell you, do not worry about your life, what you will eat or drink; or about your body, what you will wear. Is not life more than food, and the body more than clothes? 26 Look at the birds of the air; they do not sow or reap or store away in barns, and yet your heavenly Father feeds them. Are you not much more valuable than they? 27 Can any one of you by worrying add a single hour to your life[a]?28 “And why do you worry about clothes? See how the flowers of the field grow. They do not labor or spin. 29 Yet I tell you that not even Solomon in all his splendor was dressed like one of these. 30 If that is how God clothes the grass of the field, which is here today and tomorrow is thrown into the fire, will he not much more clothe you—you of little faith? 31 So do not worry, saying, ‘What shall we eat?’ or ‘What shall we drink?’ or ‘What shall we wear?’ 32 For the pagans run after all these things, and your heavenly Father knows that you need them. 33 But seek first his kingdom and his righteousness, and all these things will be given to you as well. 34 Therefore do not worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about itself. Each day has enough trouble of its own.

Waterton to Banff NP – June 21 & 22

Alaskan Adventure: Day 21 & 22. Travel day from Waterton National Park to Banff National Park with a stop at “Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and the first day visit to downtown Banff.

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When we raised the front blind we discovered a crack in the front windshield. There was a little chip in the glass right at the bottom. Must have happened several days earlier when traveling from Glacier to Waterton but the crack going up was new. Hopefully will not get worse.

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Leaving Waterton on another sunny day we stopped at an overlook with a wide open view of the open grasslands.

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Explanation of the area. We have seen lots of antelopes and deer on our travels but either too far away or no place to stop for photos.

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We stopped to see the “Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump” World Heritage Site because, curiosity.

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Explanation of where the name came from is not what we expected.

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Looking out from above – the Buffalo’s perspective.

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Looking up from below – the Indians perspective.

Picture doesn’t give the impression of how high and dangerous the cliffs are.

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Illustration and diorama of the buffalo jump kill site.

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Interesting to learn about all the planning and prep that went into this.

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Seeing small herds of buffalo in Custer State Park was great but sort of sad to know they once ruled the plains.

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Winter Count Robe records with symbols the most important thing that happened each year.

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Napi is Indian name for “the creator”. I thought erratics were just random glacial left behinds, not grouped in a “train”.

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There was an Indian “Fancy Dancer” at the Visitors Center with lots of people sitting around watching. Way too loud for me. We left quickly because of the amplified noise and because the mosquitoes were fierce!

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We left Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and headed north toward Calgary on Highway 2 but had to turn around and backtrack due to a bad accident that they told us would block the road for several hours. It worked out well because that sent us to Highway 22 that was a beautiful drive along the edge of the mountains instead of across the open plains. Photo above is our campsite at Banff called Tunnel Mountain Trailer Court. We stayed here 5 nights.

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On our first day we rode the “Roam” shuttle bus from the campground into downtown Banff. A quick stop at the Visitors Center then stopped at a bank to get some Canadian money. We walked the main street with lots of expensive shops (Banff Avenue) down to the Bow River and then along the river to the Bow Falls.

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Tourists and flowers in Banff.

The beginning of Bow Falls (on the Bow River). The town of Banff is in the Bow River Valley and Bow Glacier is the primary origin of the river. After walking the trail along the rapids for awhile we headed back into town for lunch at Indian Curry House.

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Reading two books as we travel. “No Ordinary Woman” was recommended by Becky’s sister Deanne. Interesting story of a Quaker woman from Philadelphia area who loved the Canadian Rockies and had a significant part in the history of the Banff/Jasper area. “Jesus the King” is a Tim Keller book on the Gospel of Mark.

Favorite Bible reading for the day: Isaiah 66: 1-2

This is what the Lord says:
“Heaven is my throne,
    and the earth is my footstool.
Where is the house that you would build for me,
    and where will my resting place be?
All these things my hand has made,
    and so all these things came into being,”
        declares the Lord.
“But this is the one to whom I will look favorably:
    to the one who is humble and contrite in spirit,
        and who trembles at my message

Waterton Lakes National Park – June 20th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 20. We drove back into the park and down to Waterton Village to see Cameron Falls and then drove out to Cameron Lake. The road follows Cameron Creek back into the mountains and up to the lake. It was another beautiful weather day. Much of the mountainside scenery is stark from the fires 9 years ago. We then took another drive back into the mountains to Red Rock Canyon. We had been to Red Rock Canyon with Jenni, Roni, and Deanne 10 years ago and wanted to see it again.

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Cameron Falls in Waterton Village.

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Cameron Lake. Almost all of the lake is in Canada but the snow and green at the very South end is in the United States.

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You can canoe across the Canada/US borders.

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Closer look at the snowy cliffs in United States.

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Closer look at the green slopes also mostly in United States but I think this specific area is in Canada.

Photos were taken from the North end of the lake looking South. Most of that South end is in the United States.

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Canadian red sculpture at north end of Cameron Lake.

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Shadows of fire burned trees and morning sun made interesting shadows on the mountains around Cameron Lake.

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Lots of streams and waterfalls from snowmelt in the surrounding mountains. The year after the fires Cameron Falls water was black from all the ash being washed into Cameron Lake and Cameron Creek.

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Cameron Creek was originally called Oil Creek because there were “oil seeps” in the area and the first oil well in Western Canada was drilled along the creek.

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Lots of Spring wildflowers.

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Red Rock Canyon.

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More Wildflowers.

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Next stop was to visit the Prince of Wales Hotel. There is a golf course in the foreground.

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Prince of Wales Hotel – 1927. It started to sprinkle just as we arrived but then cleared up.

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Entry Sign.

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My iPhone pic on left. Screenshot from hotel’s website on the right. The view through the lobby and down the lake is awesome.

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The side facing the lake. The hotel sits on a bluff at the North end of the long Upper Waterton Lake. The North half of the lake is in Canada, the South end is in the US.

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Tourists.

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Deer grazing on lawns in Waterton Village. We visited a really nice art gallery and had dinner at Zum’s Eatery. Many of the trees in Waterton Village are Cottonwoods. There was a snowstorm of cottonwood fluff blowing everywhere.

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Cottonwood drifts. Those are my feet as we stepped out of the restaurant. We ate outside on the patio and picked cottonwood out of our fried chicken and flatbread pizza.

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On the way out of Waterton Lakes National Park. This is a panorama shot of Lower Waterton Lake. We saw a big brown bear crossing an area similar to this but there was no place to pull off, so sadly no pic.

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Morning view from our campground looking across rolling plains to Waterton Lakes National Park.

Favorite Bible reading today: Isaiah 65:1-3

“I revealed myself to those who did not ask for me;
    I was found by those who did not seek me.
To a nation that did not call on my name,
    I said, ‘Here am I, here am I.’
All day long I have held out my hands
    to an obstinate people,
who walk in ways not good,
    pursuing their own imaginations—
a people who continually provoke me
    to my very face,
offering sacrifices in gardens
    and burning incense on altars of brick;

Waterton Lakes National Park – June 19th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 19. We crossed into Canada today! Changed the Garmin from miles to kilometers.

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Sign for Alberta, Canada just after crossing through customs. No issues, the crossing was easy.

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Map of Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks. Together they are the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. We traveled today from Saint Mary, up to Cardston, and over to Waterton Lakes. It was too early to get into our campground (Crooked Creek) so we went to visit the town of Waterton Village.

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Coming into Waterton Lakes area is strange. Here there is no “Front Range” of lower mountains before the Rockies pop up. It’s just rolling green hills of prairie until bang, the mountains stand up.

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Parked in Waterton Village with mountain and burned trees in background. We visited the Prince of Wales Hotel in a quick trip 10 years ago in 2016 but did not make it down into the village below the hotel. We did not remember much of the surrounding mountains being burned off then. There was a huge fire, started by lightning 9 years ago in 2017.

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Nice house and flowers near where we parked in Waterton.

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There is a really nice new Visitors Center.

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Deer walked right through the Visitors Center plaza.

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Got the Waterton Lakes stamp to go with the Glacier stamp.

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Cool relief diorama in the Visitors Center

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Parka, the official female beaver mascot of Parks Canada.

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Looking north up the lake to Prince of Wales Hotel. We will visit the hotel tomorrow. Named after the popular Prince Edward of Wales back in 1927 (who later became King Edward III) in an effort to entice him to visit. No Prince of Wales has ever visited the hotel… This hotel, like the one not far away at Many Glacier, was built by the American Great Northern Railway. It is worth a visit to Waterton to see this impressive 100 year old building.

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Looking south down the lake. That’s the United States (Glacier National Park, Montana) at the far end of the lake.

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Already feeling “Woke Canada” and the worship of water, without acknowledging the Creator of water.

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Crown of the Continent is a fitting title for the beginning of three major rivers: Saskatchewan emptying into Hudson Bay, Columbia emptying into the Pacific Ocean, and the Missouri/Mississippi emptying into the Gulf/Atlantic Ocean.

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This makes me sad.

Favorite Bible reading passage for today: Job 38:1-4

Then the Lord spoke to Job out of the storm. He said:
“Who is this that obscures my plans
    with words without knowledge?
 Brace yourself like a man;
    I will question you,
    and you shall answer me.
 “Where were you when I laid the earth’s foundation?
    Tell me, if you understand.

Glacier National Park (East Side) – June 17th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 17. We hoped that Going to the Sun Road would be open all the way to Logan Pass but we are a few days too early and the snowplows are still opening the top of the road. We drove up as far as we could and enjoyed a peaceful sunny morning in the mountains.

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Morning view of clouds over Singleshot Mountain from near our campground.

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We headed up Going To The Sun Road with some breath taking scenery. It was early enough to have only light traffic.

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Purple Penstemon also known as Beard Tongue.

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Yellow Penstemon and Red Indian Paintbrush.

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Lots of big and small waterfalls coming down from the melting snow.

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Raven.

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Beargrass blooming.

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Mount Jackson and Jackson Glacier.

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View from Jackson Glacier Overlook – as far as we could go on the Going To The Sun Road.

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Lots of old fire burned trees in some areas.

After our road trip up and back as far as we could on Going To The Sun Road we stopped in St. Mary Village for lunch then headed north to the Many Glaciers Entrance near the town of Babb. Part of the road into Many Glacier is gravel. Good practice for Alaska.

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Had to get some Montana brewed Moose Drool beer. Tasty.

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The Stamp. Hoping to add a stamp when we get to Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park which is a “sister” park sharing the US/Canada border with Glacier.

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Selfie at Many Glacier Hotel. This 1914 Swiss Style hotel was one of many built by the Great Northern Railway.

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View from back deck of Many Glacier Hotel. Swift Current Lake and Grinnell Point Mountain (the pyramid shaped one in front)

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Mount Wilbur is the name of this one.

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Interior of Many Glacier Hotel fireplace.

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10 years ago in 2016 we had Huckleberry Pie here in St Mary Village. Hoping to do that again but it’s closed now.

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One last shot of St Mary’s Lake and the mountains on the East side of Glacier National Park.

Our next travel day will be crossing customs into Alberta, Canada at Chief Mountain Summer Station on Friday, June 18th.

Favorite Bible reading passage for today: Isaiah 53:3-8

He was despised and rejected by mankind,
    a man of suffering, and familiar with pain.
Like one from whom people hide their faces
    he was despised, and we held him in low esteem.

Surely he took up our pain
    and bore our suffering,
yet we considered him punished by God,
    stricken by him, and afflicted.
But he was pierced for our transgressions,
    he was crushed for our iniquities;
the punishment that brought us peace was on him,
    and by his wounds we are healed.
We all, like sheep, have gone astray,
    each of us has turned to our own way;
and the Lord has laid on him
    the iniquity of us all.

He was oppressed and afflicted,
    yet he did not open his mouth;
he was led like a lamb to the slaughter,
    and as a sheep before its shearers is silent,
    so he did not open his mouth.
By oppression and judgment he was taken away.
    Yet who of his generation protested?
For he was cut off from the land of the living;
    for the transgression of my people he was punished.

Grant-Kohrs Ranch to Glacier NP – June 15 & 16

Alaskan Adventure: Days 15 &16. Two days with a lot of Montana driving and beautiful scenery. June 15th we left Hardin early for a long drive to the town of Deer Lodge where we were staying at a campground called Indian Creek and visiting a National Historic Site called Grant-Kohrs Ranch. Then on a really windy June 16th we drove from Deer Lodge to the town of Saint Mary’s which is adjacent to the East Entrance of Glacier National Park.

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Grant-Kohrs Ranch was a place to get a National Parks Passport stamp. It happened to be about halfway between Little Bighorn and Glacier so we visited a place we had not heard of. The “Visitors Center” is the porch of that log cabin in the background. Two cats and a park ranger welcomed us and pointed down a path. “About an 8 minute walk to the ranch, go inside anyplace with the door open”. At first disappointment, it’s just an old ranch… but learning more it became more interesting.

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Parked at the “Visitors Center”. Behind the RV is an old Farmall tractor. Becky’s dad had an old Farmall tractor that he loved and used for many farm chores.

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Ranch on the wide open Montana high plains. It is still a working ranch, not just a tourist stop.

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This building had horse stalls.

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This is an abbreviated story and why it is a National Historic Site.

Canadian fur trader John Francis Grant was born at a Hudson Bay outpost in Alberta. The fur trade was waning and cattle ranching was becoming more profitable. He came to the area because it would allow him to graze cattle all year long. He built the first house in the area which he finished in 1862 (see pic below). He traded with emigrants on the Oregon Trail. He would trade one fresh head of cattle for two of the emigrants worn out cattle that would not survive the rest of the way to Oregon. The cattle would rest and graze on his ranch and he quickly grew the herd. Four years later, in 1862 he (and most others that had settled there and created a town they named Deer Lodge) became frustrated with the poor character of gold rush emigrants and sold the house and ranch to Carsted Conrad Kohrs who had left Germany at age 15.

Conrad Kohrs built the ranch up to 10 million acres shipping 10,000 cattle to Chicago stockyards a year. His ranch is still so large it is part of 4 States and 2 Canadian Provices. He lived here until he died in 1920. His family has kept the ranch and it’s legacy and want to share the story of western ranching in America.

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The house that Grant built then sold to Kohrs

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The stamp.

Indian Creek Campground in the town of Deer Lodge was a clean, well kept campground where we stayed the night. Next morning we headed north toward Glacier.

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Mountains on the horizon.

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Snow capped mountains! Getting closer.

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Almost to Glacier National Park. This is the earliest we have visited and excited to see more snow on the mountains,

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St Mary’s River. We crossed a bridge to get to our campground very near this picture.

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Crazy windy drive from town of Deer Lodge to St Mary’s but glad to be settled in beside the mountains for a couple days.

After settling into camp we did a quick visit to the East Glacier Visitors Center. This short video show how windy it was!

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View from the Visitors Center as the sunny day started turning cloudy and rainy.

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View from near our campground. Tomorrow we will visit Glacier National Park.

Today’s favorite Bible reading: Zechariah 8:16-17

“These are the things that you shall do: Speak the truth to one another; render in your gates judgments that are true and make for peace; do not devise evil in your hearts against one another, and love no false oath, for all these things I hate, declares the Lord.”

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument – June 14th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 14. On June 13th we traveled about 4 hours from Devils Tower, Wyoming to Hardin, Montana. The Hardin KOA is about 15 minutes from Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. Again, the drive was beautiful, especially after the rain quit and the sun came out.

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The Big Horn Mountain range is a spur of the Rocky Mountains. Lower elevation but high enough to get snow on June 13th. Pic below is a screen shot of a Facebook post about that area but further up in the mountains the next day. It did not snow on the I-90 highway but it was snowing in the mountains and almost to the highway (that white smudge area on the left). Elevation in this area was around 5,000′

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We are familiar with “Tall Grass Prairie” like in the Kansas Flint Hills . Wyoming and Montana are “Short Grass Prairie”. It’s like a zillion acre golf course with rolling hills and a few sand traps. We took this dashcam pic because there were trees which are pretty rare except in valleys with water.

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Little Bighorn National Battlefield is constructing a new Visitors Center (left side of photo). The temporary current “Visitors Center” is the trailer (right side of photo). While that was a bit of a disappointment, the rest of the visit was really interesting.

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Got the stamp and got out. We were only a few days short of the 150th Anniversary of the Little Bighorn Battle. This was called Custer Battlefield National Monument until 1991 when George H W Bush changed it.

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Little Bighorn National Cemetery has approximately 5,000 internments including the Little Bighorn Battle and other Indian Wars.

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View from the Visitors Center up the hill of “Custer’s Last Stand”. It was a beautiful day, which stood in stark contrast to the solemn thoughts of the terrible battle that happened here.

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The Memorial on top of the hill.

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Looking down the hill from the Monument.

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This was a different Custer (part of Custer’s group but unrelated).

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Markers where Soldiers fell.

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Markers where Indians fell.

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A sunken Indian Monument has been added adjacent to the Soldier Monument.

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Interesting to see the different viewpoints.

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There is the view from another defensive position (called the Reno-Benteen Defensive Site) about a 4 1/2 mile drive from where Custer and his men died on “his” famous hill. The mountain range in the distance is where Indian scouts that were part of Custer’s cavalry spotted signs of the Indian village.

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Custer sent Reno down to ‘flush out’ the Indian in the village in the valley while Custer stayed up in the hills and moved to attack. Custer did not know how big the village was because he didn’t want to be take the time to check and possibly be noticed, giving the Indians a chance to scatter.

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Reno’s attack did not go well. They were quickly overwhelmed and retreated back up into the hills (about 4 1/2 miles from Custer). They basically defended themselves for 2 days and could not go to help Custer. Lots of debate/controversy on all this but being here and seeing the area where the battle took place really helped to understand some of the complexity and how awful it must have been for both sides.

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A view down into the river valley where the Indian village was located. A peaceful serene place today.

Devil’s Tower – June 12th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 12. We traveled from Custer KOA to Devil’s Tower KOA today which was a beautiful 3 hour drive through Wyoming. We visited Devil’s Tower first because it was too early to check-in at the campground. The campground is right at the National Monument front entry gates. Another beautiful day of blue skies, cool breeze, and puffy white clouds.

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Distant view of Devils Tower and the nearby Missouri Buttes (those bumps on the left) from a pulloff called Salt Creek Overlook.

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Dashcam view getting much closer but looks far away because of the wide angle dashcam.

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We had to drop the RV and take just the tow car up to the visitors center. The photo above and the two below are from the parking lot where we disconnected. After visiting Devils Tower we reconnected, had lunch, and went back down to the campground.

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Explanation of the nearby Missouri Buttes.

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Becky says I need more people pictures so here we are, proof we made it back to Devils Tower 33 years after visiting with the kids in 1993.

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We hiked up past the trees to the base of the boulder field.

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On the way up to the boulder field there was an area of trees covered in strips of cloth, bracelets, and various other trinkets.

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More info that you may not care about but I like it.

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Leaving the National Monument, we checked into the KOA campground. This dashcam shot of Becky walking over to check-in shows how close to Devils Tower and the park entry the campground is.

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The usual gift shop stuff was for sale but they also had a section of ‘historical artifacts’ from the Close Encounters of the Third Kind movie days. This pinball machine brought back memories. Speaking of memories… random Gee Whiz trivia. I was in Paris, France 48 years ago in 1978 on a Ball State Architecture trip called PolyArk when that movie came out. The campground shows the Close Encounters each evening when the sun goes down.

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Our campsite view. The last 3 photos below are shots from in front of the RV as we watched from late afternoon to evening sunset.

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Wind Cave NP & Mt Coolidge Overlook – June 10th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 10 (& 11). Today we drove south from Custer to Wind Cave National Park. Got the Stamp and looked at the displays in the Visitors Center but did not do a cave tour. We drove north through Wind Cave NP which is part of the huge area reserved for free ranging wildlife and connects to the south end of the same open area of Custer State Park.

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Wind Cave National Park has the seventh longest cave system in the world. It’s big claim to fame is “the most well-formed and abundant collection of boxwork speleothems”. We didn’t see it but below is a pic of boxwork speleothems.

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Wind Cave Stamp
Wind Cave Stamp

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We didn’t see the cave but we did see Bison in Wind Cave National Park.

The Bison are rubbing off their winter coats. They were scratching themselves on fences, road signs, and pine trees.

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Rocky Mountain Big Horn Sheep

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The crown of horns is just marvelous looking.

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Everywhere we drove around the Black Hills there were pine trees either toppled over with roots tipped up or the tops of the trees just broken off. There was a 100 mph straight line wind storm 6 months previous in December of 2025.

iPhone panorama shot from the top of Mount Coolidge. 6,000′ elevation up a winding dirt road to a stone fire tower built by the CCC. This view is generally looking East toward the Badlands.

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From top of Mt Coolidge looking generally West. Very tiny out there on the mountain tops are the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt Rushmore Monument.

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Telephoto zoom view and then further cropped view through about 10 miles of hazy air.

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Mount Rushmore from top of Mt Coolidge

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Returning to Custer I had to get a pic of this really well done roadside kitsch. The Buffalo looked better than the resort it advertised.

Street corners in Custer feature painted fiberglass Bison.

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A granite obelisk in Custer. Dedicated to Horace N. Ross “Discoverer of gold in the Black Hills of Custer, So. Dak. July 27th, 1674. That’s a gold pan and shovel on top.

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Pics don’t do justice to the beauty of sparkling granite rocks. Weathered they are “blackish” but when broken and exposed they are very shiny and colorful.

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The Dr. D.W. Flick cabin is on display in Custer. The first building erected in the Black Hills – around 1875.

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Cool Barn Quilt Art in downtown Custer. We saw these as we wandered around downtown waiting for our laundry to finish at the laundromat. That wrapped up Wednesday.

Thursday morning was REALLY windy and chilly. The actual temp was 45 but the “feels like temp” was 27 and there was light snow just to the north of us! Today was a rest day, cleaning things up, airing up tires on RV and tow car, catching up on blog and journals, and making reservations for spring travel. Tomorrow morning we leave Custer and head to Devils Tower National Monument.

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Today’s favorite Bible reading: Jude 24-25

To him who is able to keep you from stumbling and to present you before his glorious presence without fault and with great joy to the only God our Savior be glory, majesty, power and authority, through Jesus Christ our Lord, before all ages, now and forevermore! Amen.

Scenic Drives & Mt Rushmore NM – June 9th

Alaskan Adventure: Day 9. We drove back into Custer State Park and headed north to the Iron Mountain Highway. Then stopped at Mt Rushmore National Monument, then back south to Custer through the Needles Highway.

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Our first glimpse of Mt Rushmore was from an overlook on the Iron Mountain Highway, also called Highway 16A it winds through the Black Hills from Custer State Park to the town of Keystone and Mt Rushmore.

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A little closer view but a hazy day.

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Peter Norbeck was an influential guy in the Black Hills area. The highways he designed, with tunnel openings framing the Mt Rushmore portraits and weaving between the “Needles” of rock were fun to drive in our little tow car. Impossible with the RV.

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I thought this was funny. Special circumstances for special people isn’t a new thing. President Coolidge spent a lot of his summers at Custer State Park area in “The Presidents Quarters”.

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Closer view

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Before and After of the granite rock outcropping

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Gutzon Borglum was the sculptor but the idea wasn’t his. The idea was to increase tourism in South Dakota with faces of famous Western characters. Borglum said no to that and insisted on Presidents. It worked, South Dakota is “The Mt Rushmore State” with almost 2 million visitors a year.

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Alaska, a very latecomer to the Union and the cool North Star/Big Dipper Alaskan flag.

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Seating area for watching the monument night lighting display. Wondering if our kids remember any of this from 33 years ago?

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We had lunch at Mt Rushmore. I thought these custom light fixtures in the restaurant were a nice touch and the Alaska flag too.

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George Washington (1st Pres), Thomas Jefferson (3rd Pres), Theodore Roosevelt (26th Pres), Abraham Lincoln (16th Pres). Each face is about 60′ high, carved in granite. Below are closeup shots showing more detail of the rock faces.

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Washington

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Jefferson

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Roosevelt

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Lincoln

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The Needles Highway winds among these vertical rock outcroppings. Someone was rappelling down the rock in front of the car.

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We are so blessed. It was another beautiful day driving through the scenic Black Hills and visiting Mt Rushmore.

Favorite Bible reading passage today: Isaiah 43:10-13

10 “You are my witnesses,” declares the Lord,
    “and my servant whom I have chosen,
so that you may know and believe me
    and understand that I am he.
Before me no god was formed,
    nor will there be one after me.
11 I, even I, am the Lord,
    and apart from me there is no savior.
12 I have revealed and saved and proclaimed—
    I, and not some foreign god among you.
You are my witnesses,” declares the Lord, “that I am God.
13     Yes, and from ancient days I am he.
No one can deliver out of my hand.
    When I act, who can reverse it?”