Day 4 – BAMBERG to PRAGUE

I’ll post some favorite photos here. More curious folk can click here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dadart/sets/72157631707523963/ to see more “Day 4 Photos” on flickr.
Europe4__DAD5259In the morning, we had an incredible breakfast  at the hotel then packed up and drove through town to the top of the hill expecting to park. Alas, there was NO room. Jennie dropped us off, going back into town to park then met us back at the top… Meanwhile, we stopped into St. Jakob Bamberg and enjoyed this simple and beautiful place. This is the oldest surviving church in Bamberg, construction starting in 1107. The interior is a great example of a Romanesque Basilica but the exterior front was replaced later with a Baroque facade in 1771. There are “pilgrimage stamps” at many cathedrals. Apparently some folks take this seriously. We enjoyed visiting lots of cathedrals but this is the only place we ‘got the stamp’. 

Painting over the crossing is about the life of St. James

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Architects of old Cathedrals got gold plated honors, their designs carried on the shoulders of some high ranking muckity mucks…
I say, back to the old days!

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Two fine examples of Baroque style

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The Old Palace Courtyard

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Leaving the Courtyard and approaching Bamberg Cathedral, seeing the spires (Romanesque) soaring above the rooftops.

Construction started in 1004 by King Henry II or Germany (who later became Emperor in Rome). The Cathedral was build on top of the foundations of the original Castle Babenberg which is first mentioned in 902. The Cathedral originally had only two spires. It burned down twice in the first two hundred years and now has four spires and a mix of Romanesque and Baroque architecture. It’s official name is The Bamberg Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George. The west chancel is dedicated to St. Peter – representing the pope and the east chancel is dedicated to St. George- representing the holy roman empire. I didn’t know this distinction at the time but knowing it helps explain why we saw soooo many statues of St. Peter and St. George (slaying a dragon) in towns and cathedrals we went on to visit.

Bamberg was not bombed during WW II which accounts for many of the old buildings remaining relatively intact including Bamberg Cathedral.

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Bamberg Cathedral on far left, across cobblestone plaza (called Cathedral Square).

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The arch of the Beautiful Gate

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A side door into the Cathedral. Hingework to make any Hobbit proud

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Another side door with awesome carvings surrounding it, completed in 1237. This is called the “Prince’s Portal” and is only used for special occasions.

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Prophets and Apostles on either side of the door.

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I don’t have a photo of the main entry doors but this is the view ‘out’ of the doors

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More cool hinge work and evidence on the top hinge that a heavy door and enough time can deform even thick strap iron.

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Interior of Bamberg Cathedral

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Plan of Bamberg Cathedral (yellow area). The Old Palace, Courtyard, and Beautiful Gate are partially shown on lower right area.

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Rose window and shadow

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Stained glass window. There is lots of variety. I liked this one.

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Emperor Henry II, the founder of the Cathedral, and his wife Empress Cunigunde are still buried here in this tomb that took 12 years to carve.

Pope Clement II is also buried in this cathedral ( 1047). He was only pope for 12 months and this is only place a pope is buried outside of Italy and France.

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Old painting on the stone columns and the famous ‘Horseman of Bamburg’ statue in the background

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‘The Horseman of Bamburg’ has stood in this place for almost 800 years (approximately 1230 AD). Uncertain who is represented as the Crowned Horseman but one of several contemporary Holy Roman Emperors or The Messiah are said to be possible. The Nazis propaganda claimed he was a knight symbolizing German perfection and looking to the east for new lands to conquer. Considered the first monumental equestrian statue since classical antiquity, and also one of the first to depict a horse shoe. The statue is now the symbol of Bamberg.

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We found this cool courtyard and paused for a photo. Becky, Roni, Jennie, and Deanne

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Then we traveled to PRAGUE!
After some fingernail biting excitement navigating downtown during rush hour, we found a spot at the train station parking garage. High drama as Jennie squeezed the van through narrow streets gridlocked with cars parked everywhere including the sidewalks but the absolute high point was when she played chicken with an electric tram in an intersection, adrenalin peak? yes… After figuring out how to get Czeck Krones out of an ATM in the train station, we hauled all the luggage out of the car and rattled it’s little wheels across about 1/2 mile of cobblestone streets and sidewalks. Must have looked like a Beatles Abby Road album cover.

Once settled into our hotel, and a brief rest to allow heart rates to come back down, we headed out in search of the Old Town Square and food!
It was getting dark and this photo was the first. Somehow seems fitting as it represents the beauty and crazyness of Prague

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Another shop along a street leading to the square. All kinds of hawkers, gawkers and craziness in the public streets and squares. Loads of fun.

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And, of course, the Medieval Astronomical Clock (Prague Orloj) on the south wall of the Old Town City Hall. The earliest clock works are 602 years old (1410) designed by a clockmaker and a professor of mathematics and astronomy at Charles University. There is a legend that they were blinded afterwards to prevent them making a similar clock for competing cities but the story is said to be untrue. Wikipedia has a nice explanation of the clock including the illustration/legend included below. Here is a video projection from the 600 year anniversary a few years ago http://vimeo.com/15749093#

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The figures on the sides of the clock represent things despised. Left side figure admiring himself is “Vanity”, then the money lender with bag of gold representing “Greed”. Right side is more obvious, the skeleton is “Death” (who strikes the time on the hour) and the Turk representing “Pleasure”. Just about everything ornamental is covered with pigeon netting so sometimes it doesn’t pay to look too close. There is a legend that

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Trumpeter trumpeting out on the hour from four sides of the tower.

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We ate dinner at Oliva Verde, in a ‘tent’ restaurant just below the clock tower. Their website has the menu and some nice photos: http://www.olivaverde.cz/
Deanne had a traditional Czeck Goulash Zuppa.
Becky and I shared a Quattro Formaggi pizza-ish thing. It was ok but this was one of the few times I thought the ‘American’ version was better. Local Indianapolis Bazbeaux Quattro wins hands down.

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View from the area in front of the clock tower and restaurant.

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2 thoughts on “Day 4 – BAMBERG to PRAGUE

    • Hope the photos and story lines help in some way. Sorry for the slow response. I haven’t been very good about processing our 15 days of trip photos. The plan was to be done by Christmas but didn’t even come close to that goal. I should have day 6, the last day in Prague up in next couple weeks…

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