Valdez Town & Museums – August 11

Alaskan Adventure: Day 72 – We toured the town of Valdez today, including the Visitors Center and several museums. Valdez was one of my favorite places. It is so “Alaskan”. It’s wild old Alaskan beauty and history is still there and it is possible to get glimpses of what people arriving in 1898 for the gold rush saw. The beauty of the wildlife in the sea and shores that we saw from the Lu-Lu Belle boat tour, the swarming masses of salmon, the work of early civil engineers to build a road through a canyon, the tragedy of earthquakes and oil spills, all combine to make this place special.

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Valdez mural honoring gold rush history.

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We were looking for a grocery store and stopped here at the local spot “The Food Cache”. This was a good reminder that things in Alaska are not like things in the lower 48. Clearly there has never been an ADA Code inspection here. I don’t have a pic inside but it was packed from floor to ceiling with narrow (like walk sideways narrow) aisles.

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These pics are from a different grocery store in Valdez. Things are more expensive in Valdez. Gasoline was around $6/gal.

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A example of Alaskan practicality. This historic building; “The childhood home of Alaska’s first Governor Bill Egan” is a candy store.

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We stopped at the Valdez Visitors Center. We have seen and visited several historic old Roadhouses on the tour. This display of roadhouses stretching from Valdez all the way up to Fairbanks explained how important (and crude) these early ‘hotels’ were to travelers.

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36 Roadhouses on the 360 mile trail from Valdez to Fairbanks in 1906. Approximately every 10 miles, about as far as you could walk with baggage in a day.

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Map of original Valdez town location at the base of Valdez Glacier.

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1898 Map of “Recent Gold Discoveries”

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Detail of Prince William Sound, Port Valdez and access to the “Gold Fields”

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This is the front entrance to the Valdez Museum. Utilitarian Architecture at it’s finest. There are two “city” museums in Valdez. This one is “Old Town Valdez Museum”, the other is “Valdez Museum” both are interesting and this post is a mix of both.

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The poem.

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There was an attempt to build a railroad line to Valdez in 1905. The goal was to connect Port Valdez to the rich copper mines at Kennecott (in what is now Wrangell-St. Elias National Park). There was a race between rival factions. Rail lines were started and two tunnels through rock mountains were in progress when a shootout took place in 1907. This ended progress and the rail was never finished.

We were not able to stop at the tunnel pulloff. This is a screenshot of a photo I found online by Barry Swackhamer, June 24, 2010.

Jumping ahead about 50 years from the 1900 gold rush to around 1950 the trail over the Valdez Glacier has been replaced with a road through “Keystone Canyon” called the Richardson Highway.

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Advertisement with happy smiling travelers.

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The reality. Valdez-Fairbanks Stage Line was not a easy experience.

Then came the 1964 earthquake

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We saw this grove of dead spruce trees in Resurrection Bay on our Lu-Lu Belle boat trip. Resurrection Bay got it’s name from a historic storm incident in 1792. Alexander Baranov, the first governor of Russian America was exploring the Gulf of Alaska when a storm forced his crew to find refuge in a Bay of Prince William Sound. The storm cleared on Easter Sunday so they named it Resurrection Bay.

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March 24th, 1989 is the infamous date of the Exxon Valdez 11 million gallon oil spill.

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Screenshot of Bligh Reef Light from internet. This marks the area that the single hull supertanker Exxon Valdez went aground on the rocks of Bligh Reef. Subsequent reforms now require oil tankers to have double hulls among other precautions. We saw this from a very long way away so it was nice to find a photo up closer.

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Ship at an oil loading station near the Old Town Valdez Museum.

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View across Port Valdez of Alyeska Oil Terminal. This is the storage/shipping facility at the southern end of the Alaskan Pipeline.

Valdez – Lu Lu Belle Boat Tour – August 9

Alaskan Adventure: Day 70. Our group set sail at 11:00am on the “Limousine of Valdez” piloted by Captain Fred. The day began overcast but gradually cleared and became sunny but not much warmer. We got back to dock around 8:00pm. It was really cold standing out on deck taking pictures but there was so much beauty to see!

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Valdez Harbor

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Waiting to board the Lu-Lu Belle

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The graceful Lu-Lu Belle

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Valdez Harbor from the back of the Lu-Lu Belle

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Was it the Sea Gulls laughing or Bernadette and Joe?

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Tug boats in Port Valdez.

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Setting out we saw the huge oil storage tanks on the opposite side of Valdez Bay

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View heading out toward Prince Edward Sound

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Inquisitive Sea Otters

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More Sea Otters

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Beautiful Scenery

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Bald Eagle and lots of waterfalls

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I think this is a Pigeon Guillemot (same family as Puffins)

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The Captain pointed out the tower marking the location that the Exxon Valdez ran aground and broke open spilling oil into Prince William Sound on March 24, 1989. That is an iceberg to the right of the tower. Both are very big but we were very far away.

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Bunches of colorful Puffins

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Captain Fred maneuvered the front of the boat into a shallow cave for us to get very close to this Puffin

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Another Sea Otter

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So many Sea Lions!

Sea Lions were pretty vocal about our boat being in their space

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Lots of Sea Lions with Pups

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More Sea Lions

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Humpback Whales. The Lu-Lu Belle boat came up on two sleeping whales.

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Humpback Whale Blowhole

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Humpback Whale Fluke

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Lots of Whale Tails

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We started seeing little icebergs floating around as we neared the mouth of Columbia Bay

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Majestic mountains behind entrance to Columbia Bay

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Icebergs covered Columbia Glacier Bay.

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The chunks of colorful ice got bigger and bigger

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Some of the largest icebergs are resting on the bottom instead of floating.

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The face of Colombia Glacier is 8 miles away. The field of icebergs was too dense to get any closer.

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Columbia Glacier is the largest tidewater glacier in Alaska. It is retreating very rapidly. Captain Fred attributes the rapid rate to the 1964 earthquake settling areas that allowed meltwater to flow underneath the ice.

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The face of Columbia Glacier. Doesn’t seem terribly impressive but the ice face varies between 200′ to 300′ high. (a 20-30 story building).

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Because we couldn’t get close to the main branch of Columbia Glacier we visited this west branch of the Columbia Glacier which is not calving as much so more approachable

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Glacier Tourists

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We saw whale spouts off in the distance as we were returning from the glaciers

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Beautiful ice sculptures

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The Lady in the rock (face profile).

This post ends with several videos of the boat moving into Columbia Bay; navigating slowly between the biggest icebergs and bumping aside the smaller ones with ‘clunks’. The videos may seem boring but it was pretty wild being on the boat and wondering how he would miss the next one straight ahead. A bit of the ‘Titanic’ movie came to mind more than once.

Favorite Bible verse for today: Romans 11: 33-36

Oh, the depth of the riches, both of the wisdom and knowledge of God! How unsearchable are His judgments and unfathomable His ways! For who has known the mind of the Lord, or who became His counselor? Or who has first given to Him, that it would be paid back to him? For from Him, and through Him, and to Him are all things. To Him be the glory forever. Amen.

Palmer to Glennallen to Valdez – August 7 & 8

Alaskan Adventure: Days 68 & 69. We traveled from Palmer to Glennallen and stayed one night at “Ranch House RV Camping” with a dinner at the historic Glennallen Roadhouse. The next morning we made an Amazingly beautiful drive from Palmer to Valdez.

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Mountain scenery as we headed out of Palmer.

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Colorful Sheep Mountain area.

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On our drive from Palmer to Glennallen we stopped for lunch (and cinnamon rolls) at “Sheep Mountain Lodge Restaurant” We sat underneath this enormous moose head. A good reminder that a moose is a really big animal. We joke about all the moose warning signs along the roads because we sure don’t see very many. Would like to see more but glad to not hit one.

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Matanuska Glacier.

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Road construction. Who needs guardrails.

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Waiting, waiting, waiting…

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There was a very big, deep, hole in the road to go past which was a bit exciting as the RV leaned left in the grass to get past.

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This is an Alaskan Highway. Sometimes OK, other times really patched up. What would be a bad county road in most States qualifies as a State Highway here.

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Dashcam shot as we pulled into Glennallen Historic Roadhouse RV Park. The blurred tree in the middle is from a bug splat on the windshield.

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Entry to Roadhouse for a Roadhouse Dinner.

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Inside the Historic Roadhouse. Built in the late 1940’s.

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We were told this is a 1941 International Harvester delivery truck. One of only three made available for purchase by civilians. All others went to the War effort.

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Another International Harvester truck.

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Story goes that these were two timepieces nailed to the cabin wall when one of the builders got tired of being asked “what time is it?”

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Flowers at the RV park. Quote below was clipped from a weather news account that day.

Heat Advisory

Had to chuckle when we saw Alaska was issuing heat advisories for areas we were traveling. We finally had a few days with sunshine. Family members back home in Indiana, Missouri, and Kansas were dealing with scorching 90’s and 100’s while we were wearing fleece jackets. It was hot in the sun but 60’s and 70’s with a cool breeze in the shade was great here in Alaska.

Our first stop after leaving Glennallen was Wrangell-St Elias National Park Visitor Center.

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The volcanic end of the mountain range (foreground on topo map) is the “Wrangell” portion. The mountain range extending into the background is the “St Elias” portion. That portion is not volcanic. It is uplifted as the Pacific Tectonic Plate subducts beneath it.

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Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve is the Largest National Park in the United States (20,000+ square miles). It has the largest collection of glaciers on the North American Continent and many of the highest mountain peaks. In combination with other adjacent parks it is part of the 2nd largest contiguous protected land area in the World (Wrangell-St Elias NP/Glacier Bay NP/Tatshenshini-Alsek World Heritage Site/Kluane NP)

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Normally Photoshop does a great job of stitching together multiple photos. In this case it didn’t but it shows how many of the photos in this blog are created, especially when I’m using the long telephoto lens.

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This pic of Mount Drum, taken from the overlook near the Visitors Center is made of 3 photos stitched together in Photoshop.

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Dashcam shot of Worthington Glacier near the top of Thompson Pass.

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Worthington Glacier

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Ice details of Worthington Glacier.

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Not a volcano but looks like one coming down from Thompson Pass on the Richardson Highway into Valdez.

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Deep gorge at Tsaina River bridge: “Devil’s Elbow”

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The mountains just soar upwards.

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Fireweed flowers continue to move up the stem toward the top. When flowers reach the top it is said to indicate summer is coming to an end and winter snow is six weeks away.

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Continuing toward Valdez, we entered “Keystone Canyon”. A beautiful part of the drive that made Valdez much easier to access. Previous to the Army Corps of Engineers cutting a road through Keystone Canyon the access to Valdez was over Valdez Glacier, which would be tough in an RV… This is a dashcam shot going through Keystone Canyon.

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Keystone Canyon had two big waterfalls right along the highway. This one is Bridal Veil Falls. 600′ high and the tallest roadside waterfall in Alaska.

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A bunch of pics stitched together.

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Horsetail Falls. 330′ high.

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Colorful Rocks by the falls.

Dashcam video pulling into Valdez RV Park.

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Our campsite at Valdez has a beautiful view of mountains and tidal flat that empties and fills twice a day.

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This was sobering as our campsite is about 4′ above the tide. The “old townsite” of Valdez was abandoned after the 1964 earthquake. More on that in a Valdez Museum post to come later.

Tomorrow we will go on an all day boat tour on the “Lu-Lu Belle” boat. That will be a separate post.

Favorite Bible verse today: Acts 26:22-23

So, having obtained help from God, I stand to this day testifying both to small and great, stating nothing but what the Prophets and Moses said was going to take place, as to whether the Christ was to suffer, and whether, as first from the resurrection of the dead, He would proclaim light both to the Jewish people and to the Gentiles.