Around Twillingate

We camped at Back Bay for 3 nights

Twillingate_20220808_DAD2898
Long’s Point Lighthouse
Twillingate_20220808LONGS POINT LIGHTHOUSE_PANORAMA-1
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2905
Birds mobbing fishermen
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2910
Whale spouting (that little bit of mist in center)
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2924
Bad photo of a Whale’s Tale (but proof we saw them)
Twillingate_20220808UNTITLED_PANORAMA-2
Panoramic view from Long’s Point Lighthouse
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2964
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2968
Newfoundland Scenes around Twillingate
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2974
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3219
We chartered a boat from “Captain Dave’s Boat Tours” and went Cod “fishing” (really “jigging”). Those are whale bones! Captain Dave himself skippered the boat (David Boyd). His family history is closely linked to Cod fishing and he is passionate to pass along the history.
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2976
Jellyfish at Captain Dave’s. Captain Dave’s is also the location of “Prime Birth Twillingate Fishery & Heritage Centre” which has an interesting museum of all things fishing…
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3241
Whale Baleen
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3227

This gentleman cleaned all the Cod for us

That bucket of gook is full of Cod Liver Oil. He was very good at fileting fish. Glad I didn’t have to do it.
Twillingate_20220808_DAD2995
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3037
We saw coastal scenes of rocks and seabirds while getting out to where we fished
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3147
We caught lots of Cod and one iridescently colored Mackerel
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3151
One Mackerel in a tub full of Cod
Twillingate_20220808_DAD3145

Twillingate, Newfoundland

Twillingate was one of our favorite stops. The RV Park was on North Twillingate Island. It was an easy walk from the RV Park to the water at “Back Harbor”. Back Harbor faced west so we saw some beautiful sunsets. Back Harbor had the ubiquitous and iconic brightly colored “fishing rooms” around the harbor.

Twillingate is called “The Iceberg Capital of the World” because icebergs drift south on ocean currents from Greenland and Labrador. They often get “stuck” around Twillingate when their bottoms hit the shallower bays. We were too late in the summer to see icebergs (but we did see Humpback Whales). This post is about the area where we were camped. The next page will be about places nearby we traveled to on day trips.

Trivia: Twillingate residents must use extra caution in the spring because Polar Bears and Seals often arrive on the icebergs!
Here is a link to a beautiful blog about Newfoundland: Seasons, Icebergs, Capelin, Whales, and Berries: https://newfoundsander.wordpress.com/icebergs/.

Twillingate_20220809_DAD3324
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3341
Sunset from Back Harbor, North Twillingate Island. I would walk over with morning coffee, sit and enjoy peacefulness
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3327
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3253
Roni & Becky watching me climb up the hill to get a panoramic picture of Back Harbor Bay.
Twillingate_20220809TWILLINGATE BACK BAY_PANORAMA-1
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3249
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3251
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3329
Lupin
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3323
Berries. Not sure what these are but there are low growing “bushes” (maybe 6″ high) growing all along the coastal areas. Blueberries were ripening when we were there. We had handfuls of fresh blueberries on several days.
Blueberries – Newfoundland Style. Not like the big bushes in Indiana at all.
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3306
Rock with section of purple stone (possibly purple quartz?)
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3326
Lobster Traps, waiting for next season
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3242
Salt Box Home we walked past each day from RV Park to Back Harbor Bay.

I don’t have a photo but it’s worth mentioning the “Split Peas” at “Twillingate-New World Island Dinner Theatre”. The local ‘actors’ and fantastic musicians put on a hilarious show of all things Newfoundland’ish. We enjoyed it, the food was good too. https://vacationintheisles.com/dinnertheatre/

We’ll end this post with more sunset pics – We didn’t want to leave Twillingate…

Twillingate Sunset_20220807_DAD2790
Twillingate Sunset_20220807_DAD2811
Twillingate Sunset_20220807_DAD2822
Twillingate_20220809_DAD3346

Trinity, Newfoundland

The Town of Trinity on Trinity Bay. This town was not on the official ‘agenda’ for the caravan group but was a nice day trip.

Local Trivia: The smallpox vaccine was first introduced to North America in 1799 here in the little fishing village of Trinity by Rev. Dr. John Clinch. Dr. Edward Jenner discovered the vaccine and was a close boyhood friend of Clinch. Jenner had developed the first smallpox vaccine in England using a less dangerous virus derived from cowpox in 1796. Newfoundland was a British colony at the time and Clinch moved to Trinity. He began inoculating his own family then 700 villagers. When nearby Bonavista was being ravaged with smallpox, Trinity proved immune. About 3 years later the vaccine was introduced in the United States.

Trinity Bay_20220806UNTITLED_PANORAMA-1
Trinity Bay_20220806UNTITLED_PANORAMA-5
Gothic Revival: St. Paul’s Anglican Church
Trinity Bay_20220806UNTITLED_PANORAMA-4
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2744
Trinity Bay_20220806UNTITLED_PANORAMA-3
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2750
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2740
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2732
Above: Lester-Garland Premises (originally a fish processing station) which is now a local theatre called Rising Tide Theatre

Below: Many of the Salt Box style homes in Trinity are historically restored/preserved. We enjoyed the morning walking around town.

Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2767
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2766
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2741
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2762
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2754
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2757
Fort Point Lighthouse
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2768
Trinity Bay_20220806_DAD2770
Leaving Trinity we had a nice lunch here at Port Rexton Brewing Company

Catalina Harbour

We visited the Catalina area and enjoyed a walk along a rugged area of Atlantic Coast. Catalina is on the Bonavista Peninsula which is unique for being relatively flat; without cliffs along the shore. When we arrived there was a thick mist coming in and almost a whiteout situation. We walked on narrow paths through a low, mossy/spongy carpet of berries, grasses, and wildflowers.

Bonavista_20220805CATILINA_PANORAMA-1
Catalina_20220804_DAD1810
Catalina_20220804_DAD1805
Catalina_20220804_DAD1834
Manuel Island Lighthouse. A tiny lighthouse on a tiny island in the harbour
Catalina_20220804_DAD1827
Where the moose outnumber the people; they take moose-plows seriously
Catalina_20220804_DAD1813
Roni, Jennie, and Becky; walking in the mist rolling off the Atlantic
Catalina_20220804_DAD1826
Catalina_20220804_DAD1817
Catalina is a ‘working’ fishing town. Not very touristy which was refreshing

Puffins – Witless Bay Ecological Reserve

We took a boat tour from “Gatherall’s Puffin and Whale Watch” of Witless Bay which turned out to be just awesome. The boat took us out to several islands comprising the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. This is the largest Atlantic puffin colony in North America.

Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1501
Puffin Colony: each white dot is a cute little puffin on a nest. The puffins prefer grassy areas.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1500
Photos above, closeup of puffins.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1481
Photos below, puffins taking off & landing.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1444
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1433
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1432
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1436
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1516
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1405
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1467
Puffins everywhere, on the island, in the water, and in the sky.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803COLONY_PANORAMA-1
This island was covered in nesting Common Murres/Guillemots. They prefer the bare rock areas.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803NESTING_PANORAMA-1
Common Murres/Guillemots on the bare rock and puffins in the grassy area.
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1587
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1588
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803MURS_PANORAMA-1
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1784
It clouded up and started raining as we were finishing up. The birds were feeding on the water and ‘parted’ as the boat came through. The puffins often had beaks full of little fish hanging out.

Below are some of the colorful, rugged sea-shore rocks along the coast.

Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1383
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1379
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1377
Witless Bay Puffins_20220803_DAD1374

Cape Spear – Easternmost Point in North America

Cape Spear is the ‘easternmost’ point of land in North America. The sun comes up here long before it comes up at the much advertised Acadia National Park, Cadillac Mountain, Maine. It’s difficult to tell how much earlier because Newfoundland is in a different time zone 1-1/2 hours earlier than “Eastern Time”. Most of Canadian Maritime Provinces are 1 hour earlier than Eastern but Newfoundland gets another 1/2 hour earlier.

St Johns_20220802_DAD1317
St Johns_20220802_DAD1310
The Original (now inactive) Cape Spear Lighthouse – 1836
St Johns_20220802_DAD1281
St Johns_20220802_DAD1367
For a sense of scale; this photo is taken from Cape Spear, looking back northwest toward the St. John’s Harbor entrance. That bump on top of Signal Hill is Cabot Tower and the white dot below and left of the tower is the Amherst Lighthouse.
St Johns_20220802UNTITLED_PANORAMA-1
Above: Clear water and rugged coastline. Locals told us this was one of the most calm Atlantic waters they had ever seen.
Below: The nearby “New” (active) Cape Spear Lighthouse was built in 1955.
St Johns_20220802_DAD1287
St Johns_20220802_DAD1324
St Johns_20220802_DAD1320
St Johns_20220802_DAD1256
Looking Down: I enjoyed sitting on the edge of the easternmost cliff of North America. It was a long, long, long, way down and very windy but the breeze was blowing UP the cliff. It was fun to watch seabirds flying along below. Photos just don’t begin to capture the feeling of being there.
Left
Looking Left:
Right
Looking Right:
St Johns_20220802UNTITLED_PANORAMA-2
Photo looking back as we were leaving Cape Spear.
St Johns_20220802_DAD1252

St. John’s & Petty Harbor, Newfoundland

Our first stop was Cabot Tower on Signal Hill: There are many interesting things about this hill and iconic bit of Architecture. One is that this spot is where Guglielmo Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless signal from Cornwall, England in 1901

St Johns_20220802_DAD1147
Cabot Tower
St Johns_20220802_DAD1168
How the Architect drew it…
St Johns_20220802_DAD1163
How it got built…
St Johns_20220802_DAD1156
The world with St. John’s at it’s center. At this point we were as close to Ireland as Indianapolis.
St Johns_20220802_DAD1150
St Johns_20220802_DAD1206
St Johns_20220802ST JOHNS BAY LIGHTHOUSE_PANORAMA-1
Looking down on the entrance to St. John’s Harbor, called “the Narrows”. The Amherst Lighthouse on top of the outcropping is built on some of the old foundations of Fort Amherst below. Here’s a link to some interesting history; https://www.hiddennewfoundland.ca/fort-amherst–chain-rock
St Johns_20220802ST JOHNS_PANORAMA-1
Zoomed in on St. John’s downtown and Harbor. Upper left building is “The Rooms” built to house St. John’s art and culture exhibits. It is an oversized version of traditional “fishing rooms” which is what Newfoundlander’s called the colorful sheds along waterlines. They are brightly colored so fishermen can find them in the fog.
St Johns_20220802_DAD1230
Petty Harbor
St Johns_20220802_DAD1235
Petty Harbor. Newfoundland scenes like this were to become typical as we traveled for the next 30 days around the island.
Mess-O-Moose
“Moose Madness” Moose Sausage, Ground Moose Meat and Moose Gravy on chips (fries) at Chafe’s Landing Restaurant in Petty Harbor.

Ferry to Newfoundland

from : North Sydney, Nova Scotia : to : Marine Atlantic Ferry : to: Argentia, Newfoundland

N Sydney Ferry_20220731_DAD1066
This is the Marine Atlantic Ferry. We loaded all of our RV’s onto the lower level for a 15 hour overnight sail to Newfoundland. We had a small ‘room’ for the night. Nobody can stay below with the vehicles. We just park it and set the brake.
Everyone gets ‘staged’ into loading lanes in a big parking lot. Some were unlucky enough to get staged underneath the lights where cormorants were nesting. Those RV’s were quickly plastered with white cormorant poo. We (and the motorcyclists staged near us) were glad we were far from a light pole…
N Sydney Ferry_20220731_DAD1064
N Sydney Ferry_20220731_DAD1061
Newfoundland_20220801_DAD1141
Newfoundland_20220801_DAD1142
Some nice shoreline as we exited Sydney Harbor.
N Sydney Ferry_20220731_DAD1076
Low Point Lighthouse marks the eastern entrance/exit to Sydney Harbor. Once past this lighthouse we were out into the open North Atlantic.
Newfoundland_20220801N SYDNEY FERRY_20220731NEWFOUNDLAND_PANORAMA-2
The next morning, as we were approaching Argentia, we saw these beautiful haystack-like islands wrapped in mist. We also passed within a few miles of France! Saint Pierre and Miquelon is a group of eight islands that are the most western outpost of Europe. You need a passport to enter this part of France and their currency is the Euro. We did not go there but this was a geographic learning experience for me.
Newfoundland_20220801NEWFOUNDLAND_PANORAMA-5
Newfoundland_20220801NEWFOUNDLAND_PANORAMA-4
More of the surreal misty morning coastline coming into Argentia
Newfoundland_20220801NEWFOUNDLAND_PANORAMA-1
From Argentia, we disembarked our RV’s and drove to St. John, the capital of “Newfoundland and Labrador” (the official name of the Province – which I will now just call Newfoundland)

The Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Highlands

We did the Cabot Trail on a bus (well, ‘motorcoach’) – and I would not recommend that to anyone…
The shoreline is beautiful. In a car, on your own, where you can stop and enjoy the scenery, it could be a nice trip.
In a bus, trying to take pictures through bouncing/swaying tinted glass, it was really disappointing. The tour guide on the bus was great and told some good stories, but 10hrs on a bus was awful.

Cabot Trail_20220728_DAD0983
Cabot Trail_20220728_DAD1019
Cabot Trail_20220728_DAD1018
Black Brook Beach was nice. One stop the bus had to make to let people use the porta potties.
Cabot Trail_20220728_DAD1054
Cabot Trail_20220728CABOT TRAIL_PANORAMA-2

Tall Ship Silva, Halifax

Halifax is the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia.
We did several things while at Halifax but the highlight was ‘sailing’ on the “Tall Ship Silva”.
It was a hot, sunny day. We had a delicious lunch at Los Toros Auténtico Español and enjoyed walking along the Halifax Harborwalk. We also visited “The Citadel-National Historic Park” which sits on top of the hill overlooking Halifax.

As we were returning from our sailing trip one of the Canadian Navy submarines set sail and cruised out right in front of us.

Halifax Silva Ship_20220725_DAD0638
Halifax Silva Ship_20220725_DAD0676
Halifax Silva Ship_20220725_DAD0683
Halifax Silva Ship_20220725_DAD0687
Halifax Silva Ship_20220725SYLVA_PANORAMA-1
Halifax Silva Ship_20220725_DAD0674
Halifax Submarine_20220725DSC_6197
Submarine photo courtesy of Tommy (my camera memory ran out)
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724HALIFAX_PANORAMA-2
The Citadel National Historic Park – a star shaped fortress. We stood around in the hot sun waiting for the “changing of the guard”. Never again…
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0603
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0590
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0566

Peggy’s Cove +, Halifax

We visited Peggy’s Cove, Swissair Flight 111 Memorial, and the “Titanic Cemetery” (Fairview Lawn)

Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0511
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724PEGGYS COVE_PANORAMA-1
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0499
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0507
Peggy’s Point Lighthouse
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0490
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0489
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0482
Dessert Together
Goofy pic of Duane and Becky with desserts at Peggy’s Cove “Sou’Wester Gift & Restaurant Company”. It’s a tourist trap but the meal was part of the Adventure Caravan package. The bolo tie strings we are wearing are the Adventure Caravan name tags we had to wear for admission.
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0476
Swissair Flight 111 Memorial. This was a sobering stop on the way to visit Peggy’s Cove. The morning weather was cool and foggy; a dreamlike setting memorializing the loss of 229 lives on September 2, 1998. The flat face of the memorial is aligned with where the plane crashed about 5 miles offshore.
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0475
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0477
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724SWISSAIR111_PANORAMA-1
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724UNTITLED_PANORAMA-2
The landscape that we walked through to get to the memorial included wide areas of smooth stone and stunted/dwarf sized pine trees trying to survive the harsh Atlantic weather.
Peggys Cove Halifax_20220724_DAD0531
We visited Fairview Lawn Cemetery in Halifax. 121 victims of HMS Titanic are buried here.
Halifax Moose
We saw a moose in Halifax… tourists

Lunenberg: Nova Scotia

Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0414
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0405
The famous Bluenose Schooner: 1921-46 Champion Racer (replica)

We really enjoyed our visit to Lunenberg: a very picturesque harbor town. The guide and displays at the “Maritime Museum of the Atlantic” helped explain the history of fishing in the area and of “The Bluenose”.

Lunenburg_20220721LUNENBURG_PANORAMA-1
Lunenburg_20220721LUNENBURG_PANORAMA-2
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0404
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0403
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0402
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0380
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0375
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0427
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0372
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0374
Old & New Reuse: from Blacksmith Shop to Bourbon Distillery
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0373
Lunenburg_20220721_DAD0371
Ironworks selection
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722IMG_2450
Heaven Hill
During a tour of the Ironworks I spotted reused barrels from Heaven Hill and Buffalo Trace Distilleries
Buffalo Trace
Lunenburg_20220721IMG_2436
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0401
Lunenburg and Mahone Bay_20220722_DAD0381