Gulf State Park, AL & Fort Pickens, FL

3 of 13 Jekyll Island Trip Series.

We were excited to be first timers at the Gulf State Park we had heard so much about. We had camped once last year along the Atlantic Coast at Jekyll Island but we had never even been to the Gulf Coast. Everything was great; the campground, campsite, friendly campers, and friendly wildlife including several smallish alligators…

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Juvenile Bald Eagle. The nest was nearby. John and Pam had shown us the location of the nest the day before. The next day they let us borrow Pam’s eBike and I rode back to check the nest again when this one appeared. I didn’t carry the big camera on the bike so this is an iPhone shot.
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This is the view from the overpass that crosses over the highway between the campground and the beach and pier. The eBike was awesome as it powered up the ramp going over and again coming back from the beach.

Not many photos from this part of the trip but we had a great relaxing time at Gulf State Park. We especially enjoyed visiting with John, Pam, and Tim; sitting around John’s propane campfire pit, the visit to the pier with double-red flag warnings due to high surf, and lunch at “Lambert’s” – home of the throwed rolls!

From here we headed to Topsail Hill Preserve State Park which is also along the Gulf Coast. Just a note that the sandy beach here at Gulf State Park is much ‘wider’ and open to the dunes behind the beach. At Topsail the beach is narrow and the dunes are roped off.

On our way to Topsail we found our way to the Pensacola Beach bridge and Fort Pickens, FL. We stopped at the Visitors Center and got a stamp for the Gulf Islands National Seashore which stretches across eight barrier islands along the Florida and Mississippi coast. It was starting to rain so we didn’t stay to explore the fort. We will come back sometime for that and maybe camp at the nearby Ft Pickens campground. Fort Pickens is at the western tip of Santa Rosa Island. Built by slaves using 22 million bricks and completed in 1834 it was intended to defend Pensacola Harbor. Even during the Civil War it remained a Union fort.

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As we hustled back to the RV amid sprinkles we spotted this beautiful Great Blue Heron hanging out in the grass.
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Stamp in National Parks Passport book

The US Navy Blue Angels are stationed at Pensacola and practice at Fort Pickens area. We heard them a lot and saw them occasionally as we traveled from Gulf State Park to Topsail Hill Preserve State Park.

Monte Sano State Park & Gunter Hill COE Campground, AL

2 of 13 Jekyll Island Trip Series.

Monte Sano is an interesting park, on top of a mountain, adjacent to Huntsville, Alabama. We enjoyed some relaxing time at Monte Sano even though it rained off and on nearly the entire 2 days we were there. Monte Sano in Spanish means “Mountain of Health”. It was freakishly quiet with just the dripping rain or if it wasn’t raining the drip of mist falling from tree branches. I used the time to finish a series of blog posts from our Newfoundland trip last summer and Becky did some sewing of quilt blocks with her new sewing machine-proving that it can be done in the RV on a rainy day.

Except walking around the campground we only went on one hike when there was a break in the rain. The hike was an enjoyable, magical, mystical, walk in the mountain mist to a Japanese Garden with a Tea House on the park property. The first photo is of the RV in the mist. All the rest are of the Japanese Garden/Tea House hike. All photos are iPhone.

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Bamboo bordered path and Japanese Tea House

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Azaleas
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We left Monte Sano and again headed south on 65 from Huntsville to Montgomery, Alabama. Turning off at “The Old Selma Road” we arrived at Gunter Hill Campground, a Corp of Engineers campground on the Alabama River.

Hopewell Rocks, Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick

These are sometimes called “Flowerpot Rocks” or “Sea Stacks”. We arrived at Hopewell Rocks on an afternoon when the tide was in (up). After spending the night nearby we returned again in the morning when the tide was out. Tides vary daily but there can be as much as a 52′ difference in the water level from tides in the Bay of Fundy area.

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View from our campsite – there were more than a few mosquitoes here
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Flowers at Hopewell Rocks and at entrance to our campground
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Tide IN
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Tide OUT (mostly, this was not full lowest tide)

It’s an odd feeling walking around where you know in a few hours the tide will come back and submerge everything. This happens twice a day (in/out, in/out every 24hrs) so it’s relatively rapid; you can stand and watch the water level change.

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Me
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When the tide is out, it is Way Out
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Kayakers heading out as the tide comes in far enough to float them

That’s all the photos for this trip. We went from Hopewell Rocks to St. John, New Brunswick for the tour “dismount” festivities. However, more than a few of the group had Covid at that point so we said our goodbyes and headed for home.

Norris Point, Bonne Bay, & Woody Point, Gros Morne

On our last day in Gros Morne National Park we visited the town of Norris Point and we drove around the East and South “Arms” of Bonne Bay to the towns of Bonne Bay and Woody Point. The photo below is from a little roadside gift shop along the way to Norris Point. The foreground is a hedge of rose hips, Bonne Bay in the middle and Tablelands in the background.

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A kinetic whirligig sculpture commissioned in 1997 for Gros Morne National Park as part of the Canada 150 Celebration. It is located at the same gift shop. Sculpture originally had movement but tough Newfoundland weather has taken it’s toll… Scenes of local nature, including giant mosquitoes.
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The Bakery: We were told there was a bakery we should not miss in Norris Point. We found the bakery and got some fresh rolls. It is the most “Newfoundland’ish” store. This homemade sign hung above the checkout counter. It’s not a joke. It’s just an honest declaration of business hours in the local way of speaking. The place to visit is “C&J Rumbolt Ltd”. It doesn’t look like much on the outside. Go in the door that says “Rumbolt’s Bakery”, you won’t be disappointed. Surprised maybe, but not disappointed.
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Woody Point Lighthouse
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There is a Discovery Center at Woody Point. We learned throughout the trip that Moose Nose was a “thing” to eat in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Early settlers in Acadia ate Moose Nose Soup. I was happy to find a recipe at the Discovery Center on how to prepare a moose’s nose for a special family dinner.

Moose were common and natural on the mainland in Nova Scotia but were never on the island of Newfoundland until brought there around 1900. With no natural predators they have flourished and now outnumber the people of Newfoundland.

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Above and Below: Gros Morne Mountain towers over all the local landscape.
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Gros Morne looming behind the town of Rocky Harbor
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Gros Morne from Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
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That’s it for Gros Morne National Park. If you get a chance to visit this awesome place, plan to spend at least a week here.

Our last night “on the rock” of Newfoundland we traveled to a campground near the ferry at Grand Codroy. The following morning we loaded back up on the ferry at Port aux Basque for the much shorter (5 hours) trip back to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.

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While at Grand Codroy I tried some sketching and painting of the lighthouse we had seen at the beginning of our trip (Portland Head Light, Fort Williams Park, Maine)
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A beaver, dragging a branch of pine tree upstream
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A parting sunset over the Grand Codroy River for our last night in Newfoundland

The Arches & Green Point Geological Site

We headed back south to Gros Morne. Then we made some day trip visits in and around the park.

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The Arches Provincial Park. A curious rock formation made of dolomite. The rounded boulders that make up the ‘seashore’ were hard to walk on but beautiful.
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Beautiful rounded boulders on the beach. Too big to bring home…
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This is the area called “Green Point Geological Site” (that spit of land jutting out in the background). It is part of Gros Morne National Park and is considered a “World Geological Benchmark”. Fossils discovered here define the boundary between the Cambrian and Ordovician periods.
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Below: Beach Boulders and Jennie in a Canadian Red Adirondack Chair. “Parks Canada has placed over 200 red Adirondack chairs in peaceful and scenic locations throughout many of the country’s most unique and treasured places”

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The view of Green Point from Jennie’s chair
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Looking down from the edge
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Lobster traps along the coast at Green Point. Labrador is across the water.
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Colorful, Interesting Rocks. Maybe I should have been a geologist…

Lobster Head Cove Lighthouse

This lighthouse and lightkeepers residence were built in 1897 and are within Gros Morne National Park. It has a museum inside but it was closed when we visited. This place is remarkable. The views from the cliffs are spectacular and it is a great place to get down to the tidewater edges and experience tuckamore forests.

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Becky walking down to the cove at low tide
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Tuckamore Forest: Here’s a quote from Tuckamore.org “Tuckamores are trees that have been bent and sculpted by constant strong onshore winds. The salt spray kills exposed buds, so growth only occurs on the tree’s sheltered inland side. The shores of Gros Morne National Park in Northern Newfoundland are covered in thick, contorted tuckamore forests”.
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Colorful tidewater plants & rocks & snails & stuff
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Looking back up to the lighthouse from below
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Wildflowers to finish the visit

L’Anse aux Meadows, “Camping”, & Ketchup Chips

There is a nice museum at L’Anse Aux Meadows National Historic Site.

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A “How They Got Here” map was helpful
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There is a nice ‘path’ with islands to sail across to Iceland.
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Very brave sailing the open Atlantic in a ship like this model
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Heading west from Greenland, the sailors would hit what is now the east coast of Labrador, then sail south keeping the coast in view until they sighted Belle Isle which led them straight ahead to L’Anse aux Meadows
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This was our “campsite” while at St. Anthony. Our little 26′ RV is parked at the end facing forward. The majority of people on the tour had much larger “Big Rigs”. This was one of the least enjoyable surprises of the Adventure Caravan’s tour. We expected to be staying in more park-like settings, not parking lots. Most of the places we stayed were similar to this. Sometimes gravel, sometimes grass but basically a field with parking spaces, not campsites. Adventure Caravan’s made all the arrangements and honestly we would not have gone to Newfoundland without the planning and organization of Adventure Caravan’s – but be aware that everything is designed around accommodating the Big Rigs. If you have something smaller and more nimble there are nicer places to camp. Not pictured here are two camper vans, a truck-bed camper, a couple class C’s including Jennie’s View, and a few truck-trailer units that were part of our group.
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Ketchup Flavored Potato Chips: I did not know such a thing existed. After tasting them I still wonder, why?
I tried to like them. Canadians seem to love them as they are everywhere. Maybe an acquired taste but this is one I hope stays in Canada.

Norstead Viking Village, Newfoundland

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Norstead is a reconstruction of a Viking settlement; from around 1,000 AD. Norstead is located near L’Anse aux Meadows (link to Wikipedia if you are interested in the Norse/Viking history of this area). There is so much interesting history about this area; here are two quick ones:
1. The area referred to as “Vinland” in ancient writings was assumed until 1960 to be much further south around Massachusetts until a local farmer on the northern tip of Newfoundland led archeologists to an old “Indian Village”
2. Butternut tree nuts were discovered in excavations. Grape vines and butternut trees grow in similar climate conditions. It seems that 1,000 years ago the climate in this area supported both and helps explain the Vinland reference.
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This recreation of a Viking boat (called a Knarr) was sailed in a reenactment from Iceland to L’Anse aux Meadows with 9 person crew in 1998.
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Board Games of early settlers

Viking Chieftan

On a dare from Jennie, I sat in the Viking Chieftain’s throne with helmet and sword. Very Chieftain’ish ‘eh

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Viking Church at Norstead
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Church Interior
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Scenes of the coast in area of Norstead and L’Anse aux Meadow
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Everywhere there is a mat of Partridgeberry/Lingonberry over soft/squishy peat moss. There are some paths to walk on but where they run out it is wonderful to hike in the soft vegetation.

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Panorama of Norstead Village

St. Anthony, Newfoundland

We stayed in St. Anthony several nights. This was the place “farthest from home” of the trip. It is 2,271 miles from Indianapolis.

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That’s Newfoundland coast in the foreground, and Labrador over on the other side.
We traveled from Gros Morne National Park, up the western coast of Newfoundland to St. Anthony which is out near the northern tip of the island.
The picture above was taken where Newfoundland and Labrador are closest together across the Strait of Belle Isle in the Gulf of St Lawrence – a distance of about 10 miles at it’s narrowest.

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We took a boat tour to find a whale. It was a windy day and not a very big boat… it reminded me of the infamous “Minnow” as we headed out for a 3hr tour… hoping we would not be lost.
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Thanks to our persistently searching Captain, and our fearless crew, we did see whales! The boat was bobbing wildly on the waves and this was a lucky shot.
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Rugged Coast
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Fox Point Lighthouse as we were returning back to dock at Northland Discovery Iceberg & Whale Tours.
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Above: Fox Point Lighthouse and “Haul Up Cove”. There is a wonderful little restaurant near the lighthouse called “Lightkeepers Seafood”. We hung out there several times. We enjoyed the food and the Wi-Fi (which is hard to find in Newfoundland). There is also a nearby thing called the “Great Viking Feast”. We recommend avoiding that.

Above: Partridgeberry Cheesecake: Lightkeepers Seafood Restaurant.
Trivia: Partridgeberry picking season was in full swing. Partridgeberries are the same as what other countries call “Lingonberries”. They are a relative of the cranberry but more mild. In Newfoundland, they grow in a low evergreen shrub in the dry acidic soils of Newfoundland and Labrador’s coastal barrens and headlands. Newfoundland and Labrador are the largest harvester of Partridge/Lingonberries in North America.

Cod Tongues
Fried Cod Tongue. I thought it was delicious. Didn’t get much help from the rest of the group. It is considered a Newfoundland delicacy. Also at Lightkeepers Seafood Restaurant. We really enjoyed this restaurant. We really did not enjoy the Great Viking Feast.

Below: Scenes from around the boat dock.

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Above: Green coastal rocks

Below: Really far out from shore the whales were jumping way out of the water-looked like they were having a great time. These were taken from the little front porch of the Lightkeepers Seafood Restaurant where lots of visitors stood watching the whales play.

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Panorama from Fox Point area looking back at town of St Anthony and Marguerite Bay
Screenshot of Google Maps location.
2,282 driving/ferry miles from home to L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site at the very northern tip of the peninsula was the next days visit.

Gros Morne National Park: Western Brook Pond

A UNESCO World Heritage Site: Amazing place on earth, go here if you ever get a chance.

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We stayed at Gros Morne National Park two times. This first time we visited “Western Brook Pond”.

Parking out by the road, we walked about an hour across flat coastal lowlands to reach the entry to the 540 foot deep “Pond” (we would call this a lake). The glacier carved pond is 10 miles long and the surrounding cliffs tower 2,200 feet high. The weather was sunny a few moments but mostly overcast and threatening rain. We were grateful to get finished without getting more than a few sprinkles.

The mountain range (in photo below) that rises up along the western edge of Newfoundland is called the “Long Range Mountains”. It is an extension of the same mountain range we in the United States call the “Appalachian Mountains”. I had no idea that the Appalachian Mountain Range continued that far north into Canada.

Following are a bunch of photos – none of which really capture the grandeur of the place – but they bring back good memories. I hope they inspire others to visit Gros Morne.

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My kids hate it when I stop to read markers but it helps to understand how this unique place ‘happened’. Feel free to skip this if you are like my kids.
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Jennie & Becky headed to Western Brook Pond for the boat ride
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Scenes along the trail
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Lots of waterfalls off the surrounding cliffs fill the pond with fresh water.

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Two examples of lava forced upward through cracks then exposed by glaciers. I think that is called a “diabase dyke” and according to Gros Morne geology the cracks formed when the supercontinent began breaking apart.

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On the boat returning back to the dock the pond looked like an infinity pool.
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Looking back toward the pond as we walked to the car we saw this glorious rainbow.
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Panarama of the Long Range Mountains; the end of the Appalachian Mountains

Twillingate to Gros Morne

Sometimes there is time to kill on travel days because you cannot arrive at the next destination until late afternoon.

We stopped at “The Newfoundland Insectarium” while traveling from Twillingate to our next stop at Gros Morne National Park.

It’s a nice insect collection but it could be anywhere, not particularly Newfoundland’ish. I enjoyed the live exhibits more than the dead ones. I don’t have a photo but it was fun watching a whole bunch of live leaf-cutter ants carry leaves around.

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Another stop was at: “Salmonid Interpretation Centre” on the Exploits River near Grand Falls. This is the fish ladder bypass
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This is looking below the falls and fish ladder
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The fish ladders lets the fish (salmon) go up the gentle ladder instead of this set of treacherous rocky falls
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Around Twillingate

We camped at Back Bay for 3 nights

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Long’s Point Lighthouse
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Birds mobbing fishermen
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Whale spouting (that little bit of mist in center)
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Bad photo of a Whale’s Tale (but proof we saw them)
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Panoramic view from Long’s Point Lighthouse
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Newfoundland Scenes around Twillingate
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We chartered a boat from “Captain Dave’s Boat Tours” and went Cod “fishing” (really “jigging”). Those are whale bones! Captain Dave himself skippered the boat (David Boyd). His family history is closely linked to Cod fishing and he is passionate to pass along the history.
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Jellyfish at Captain Dave’s. Captain Dave’s is also the location of “Prime Birth Twillingate Fishery & Heritage Centre” which has an interesting museum of all things fishing…
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Whale Baleen
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This gentleman cleaned all the Cod for us

That bucket of gook is full of Cod Liver Oil. He was very good at fileting fish. Glad I didn’t have to do it.
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We saw coastal scenes of rocks and seabirds while getting out to where we fished
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We caught lots of Cod and one iridescently colored Mackerel
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One Mackerel in a tub full of Cod
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